SO MANY invaders have left traces in Cyprus that nearly every stone tells a story.

With a 9,000 year-old history, ancient sites, Greek temples and castles can be found everywhere.

Greek Orthodox churches with Byzantine Domes can be visited freely; they are now listed as part of Unesco's World Heritage sites and contain wonderful Frescoes and Icons.

Legend has it, Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, rose from the sea near Paphos and inspired Botticelli's painting, the Birth of Venus, putting Cyprus on the holiday map forever.

A more romantic history would be hard to find; no wonder Cypriots claim the island is blessed with love.

Nearly everyone speaks English here and people drive on the left. A warm welcome awaits along with full English breakfast and a good cup of tea.

Otherwise, superb Greek cooking can be found in the smallest tavernas, but the evening meal is the highspot, when you often get accompanied Bouzouki music or folk dancing, with occasional plate smashing.

Many people arrive with the almond blossom in April, when Cyprus becomes a green island for a few weeks, before being bleached white by a fierce Med sun.

Nature walks, bird watching and art tours are among more sober interests on offer after a spell on the beach.

Nicosia, the island's capital since the 12th century, was built by the Venetians. The old Venetian walls still stand and there's a fine archeological museum full of treasures; the old quarter, now pedestrianised, has a fascinating group of narrow streets filled with restaurants and shops.

Ayia Napa, Protaras and Paphos have the best golden beaches.

Limassol, the second largest town, is highly developed with a lively commercial centre, top shops and galleries and is a good base for getting around.

Stroll around the old part near the harbour, one of the most attractive areas, where ochre stone Kolossi Castle stands, built by the Knights of St John.

Eight miles away, the Curium Theatre sits high on the cliffs with wonderful views and acoustics to match.

During the long summer, live jazz and classical performances take place on this ancient site and people bring along hampers of food and wine to enjoy during intervals.

Get in touch with the old rural villages of Kakopetria, Omodhos and Lania, with cobbled streets and squares, houses with over hanging wooden balconies and lanes full of thyme, Rosemary and wild flowers.

These visits could be combined with monastery tours and wineries to bring home Sherry, honey and cheese.

Larnaca is a large sea-front town with a long beach and fine marina and the Church of St Lazarus.

Surrounded by salt lakes, home to flamingoes from December to March, the water turns bright pink with reflections when they're home.

Known as the Treasure House of the Island, Paphos has the Tomb of the Kings, ancient burial places hewn out of rocks and is home to the third century houses of Dionysus and Theseus which contain some wonderful mosaics.

Commanding a lovely position overlooking the harbour, Paphos' hotels and restaurants stretch right along the waterfront and it is close to peaceful countryside.

Festivals and celebrations take place throughout the year. This includes an arts festival in Nicosia in September, lively music and dance in Ayia Napa and an impressive wine festival in Limassol.

Fact File:

Sylvia travelled with First Choice Holidays. Tel: 0870 750 0001; brochure line: 020 8880 8155 and stayed at the Eco-friendly, Olympic Lagoon Resort, four star set in landscaped gardens; three kms from Ayia Napa on bus route to town centre. Three swimming pools, full activity programme for children and adults. Wheelchair access. Across road from lovely sandy beaches.

Website: www.kanika-group/olympic or email: olympia@kanika-group.com.

Reading: Lonely Planet, Cyprus; Rough Guide, Cyprus; Berlitz pocket size, Cyprus.

Cyprus Tourist Office for Literature: Tel: 020 7569 8800; fax: 020 7499 4935. Tel: 24 hour info: 0900 188 7744.