SPEEN: a name with origins as obscure as the reason for Grim's Ditch, an iron age earthwork which encloses the village on three sides. It seems that the village was a venue for pugilists, and one died fighting here in 1836.

There was no-one around at all, on a grey Sunday, to see me off along Highwood Bottom and thence across the fields to Loosley Row. Here, on the high ground, a windmill stands against the skyline. It has been here since 1821, having been moved from Chesham, where the power of the wind is less strong and where there were lots of water mills. It's hard to imagine a more favourable position.

This is a "smockmill", as it supposedly resembles an old man wearing a smock, but you have to stretch your imagination to see the likeness. It is the oldest such mill in England, but its working days ended during the Great War, after which it fell to ruin. It was saved and restored thanks to the Chiltern Society and is now open to visitors, and walkers might be able to buy fresh bread in passing, but don't bank on it.

The trail leads alongside Grim's Ditch, which is supposedly named after the Devil. There are pinewoods, then beech, and in places a footpath deep in mud thanks to horses' hooves. The ditch is a sure guide, until it turns sharp right where my route carried straight on. One wonders at the purpose of this 300-year-old earthwork. I think it was a boundary marker, surely it was never so high that invaders could be kept out. An appropriate name, though: Grim is the ditch and grim was the morning.

Then, as I emerged from the woods, the sun appeared, grey turned to blue, and the rolling Chiltern landscapes were now seen at their best, with just a hint of spring.

The path crossed a road and led into more woodland, this time Little Hampden Common. Here the South Bucks Way leads to the Rising Sun, and if ever a pub was strategically placed this is it. You are welcome, providing you remove muddy boots, and, if it's a Sunday, you've taken the trouble to book in advance. Otherwise, as in my case, it's press on for Hampden country.

A right of way across open parkland leads to Hampden House and church, and a better approach on such glorious day is hard to imagine. After muddy byways, the walk along the drive is a joy. The Church of St Mary Magdalen, sadly, was locked, but this is a good spot to linger, and reflect on the history of this place.

Born in 1594, John Hampden was a rebel and a patriot. He was not a man to be pushed around, even by Charles I, whom he resisted over many issues and earned himself the title "Father of the People". In 1635, Hampden refused to pay "ship money", a tax levied to pay for the Navy, saying only Parliament, not the King, had the power to demand this tax (not that Parliament was democratically elected then). Charles was forced to recall Parliament, and even issued a warrant for Hampden's arrest, but it was not executed and Hampden helped to raise a regiment against the King during the Civil Wars.

John Hampden was killed leading his men in battle, and his body brought home to be buried in the church. He was described as "gallant, honest and able", a man with absolute faculties to govern. Could I be forgiven for thinking we could do with him today?

Nearby, the old manor is largely screened by trees, but it's worth a peep before heading south, past an ancient mere to Great Hampden. Here, by the roadside opposite the cricket pitches, are two memorials, one stating that the road here was "made by the people" of Great Hampden for those of the village killed during the Great War, the other that the playing field was "prepared by the people" for those of the parish killed in the Second World War of 1939 to 1945.

More woodland and open pastures followed, before the path led to the lane and to Speen's millennium plaque. Over 400 years since John Hampden's day, and not a lot's changed.Approximate distance: 8 miles

Start and finish: Speen village, 5 miles south-west of Wendover, Buckhinghamshire

Route

Speen, windmill, Lacey Green, Grim's Ditch, Redland End, Dirtywood Farm, Little Hampden, Hampden church, Great Hampden, Hampden Common

Abbreviations

l.=left; r.=right; n. s. e. w.=north, south, east, west; br.=bridge; r.o.w.=right of way; PH=public house; m.=mile; s/post=signpost; f/post=fingerpost; b/way=bridleway; ch.=church; f/p = footpath; r/way=railway; cont.=continue; FM=farm

Routefinder

Head w. from Speen to Highwood Bottom, take b/way w. to Lacey Green (windmill). Head n.e. on Chiltern Way, joining Grim's Ditch and on to Redland End. Cont. n.e. (Grim's Ditch) in woods. Leave ditch, emerge from woods, follow farm rd to Dirtywood Fm. Cont. uphill, bear r., to Little Hampden Common (woods), pick up South Bucks Way s. to Rising Sun PH. Beyond, turn r., follow r.o.w. to Hampden Ch and then Great Hampden. Take rd by cricket pitch, then r.o.w. (woods) across Common and via Monkton Fm and rd. to Speen.

Pubs

Speen: King William IV

Lacey Green/Loosley Row: Whip Inn

Little Hampden: Rising Sun

Great Hampden: Hampden Arms

NB: Booking in advance is recommended if intending to take refreshments at the Rising Sun at weekends. Call O1494 488393.